One angler's journey, fly fishing through life

Month: May 2023

He heard me.

And let us remember a final duty: to understand that these men made themselves immortal by dying for something immortal, that theirs is the best to be asked of any life — a sharing of the human heart, a sharing in the infinite. In giving themselves for others, they made themselves special, not just to us but to their God. “Greater love than this has no man than to lay down his life for his friends.” And because God is love, we know He was there with them when they died and that He is with them still. We know they live again, not just in our hearts but in His arms. And we know they’ve gone before to prepare a way for us. So, today we remember them in sorrow and in love. We say goodbye. And as we submit to the will of Him who made us, we pray together the words of scripture: “Lord, now let thy servants go in peace, Thy word has been fulfilled.”

An excerpt from President Ronald Reagen’s speech to the families of the USS Stark, May 22, 1987.

A recent comment on this blog came from someone I didn’t know. Its timing was prescient, appearing on a day of tremendous importance that I had forgotten in the fog of everyday living. I have written here before about connections using the metaphor of dropping a pebble in a vast body of water – a seemingly simple act that can nonetheless touch distant shores. John Donne’s poem, For Whom the Bell Tolls, tells us that we are all one, interconnected, and not islands of mankind, even in death. This theme of connection also applies to my life as a fly fisherman, for the very act of fly fishing is fundamentally based on connections – the knots we tie, the line we use, the casts we make, the flies we use, and ultimately the act of enticing a fish to strike.

So out of the blue I was reminded by a former sailor, named Dan, that I had missed the anniversary of the attack on the USS Stark in the Persian Gulf on May 17, 1987. I felt bad that I had to be reminded, but grateful to hear from a sailor who shared my own loss.

USS Stark FFG-31 heading out to sea while conducting training operations at US Naval Base Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, in 1983. I was aboard her then…

It turns out Dan once worked for a Stark crewmember by the name of Bob Shippee, one of the 37 sailors who lost their lives as a result of the attack on the USS Stark. Dan’s email correspondence following his blog comment reinforced the importance of connection and celebrated the impact one life can have on another.

Bob Shippee, FTCS, USN. “No greater love..”

Dan was fresh out of Fire Control Systems “C” school in 1977, an E4 (3rd class petty officer) and was assigned to serve at the Sperry plant in Ronkonkoma NY. Sperry was the maker of the MK92 fire control system used on all Oliver Hazzard Perry guided missile frigates, like the USS Stark. At the plant, the Navy ran a full scale mock-up of an Oliver Hazzard Perry class combat system. The detachment used the mock-up to develop preventive maintenance procedures, exercise the system software, and train new Combat System crews prior to reporting for duty to their newly commissioned ships. In total, over 20 sailors and 2 officers were on hand at the Sperry unit, all of them having to be the best in the fleet in order to get such a plum but vitally important assignment.

Bob Shippee was Dan’s lead petty officer, and in Dan’s own words, “the kind of person who commanded instant respect.” Shippee was “confident without being arrogant, had superb technical knowledge, and could easily hold his own with engineers who integrated the system equipment.” He did more for Dan as a man than any of his friends. Dan credits Shippee for lessons he still uses in his career as an engineer, including the values of continuous learning, integrity, respect, hard work and duty.

According to Shippee’s obituary in the Watertown Daily Times, Shippee grew up into a smart kid who preferred to keep a low profile in school. He wrestled in high school, hunted and fished as many kids do in upstate New York, and worked in the afternoons after school at a local horse ranch. With the draft on in 1969, Shippee decided to sign up, partly out of patriotism, and partly because he could take his pick of service. His father suggested the Navy. Although Shippee signed up at a time when the draft was still in force, he did not have to join the service. A boyhood operation had left him with only 10 percent of his hearing in one ear, but recruiters believed he was faking it. When tests proved otherwise, they told him he could obtain a deferment. Shippee refused and his stance of take it or leave it must have impressed the recruiters because the Navy took him on anyhow. And this would end up being one of life’s greatest blessings for my new friend, Dan.

FTCS – the rate and rank Shippee attained…

In reverence for his former shipmate, Dan finds a quiet spot alone, every Memorial Day. There he thinks about the loss of his friend, Bob Shippee, and all the others throughout history who have given their lives for their country. I do much the same. As in past years, I return to Balls Eddy every Memorial Day. On one such Memorial Day, soon after hearing from Dan, the West Branch of the Delaware ran clear and cold, the birds were in full song, mayflies and caddis fluttered about in the spring air, and eagles soared effortlessly against bluebird skies. I arrived before 8 am, rigged up, put on my waders, and after a walk and wade downriver, was soon at the head of a long run I love to fish. The head of the run has fast water where the water bubbles and foams white. Behind the large rocks at the head of the run are eddies and good holding water for trout and it’s there I like to fish a nymph, dead drift.

Bob Shippee’s run…

For the first hour of the morning’s fishing, I chose flies that matched what was hatching. Caddis rode the wind upriver, but my imitations were not getting any interest. 9 o’clock came around and I knew I would soon hear three volleys of the gun salute made by a Marine Color Guard at the cemetery.

At 9:05 AM I heard the shots, the salute to the fallen, and their echo off the surrounding verdant hills. I paused, retrieved my flies, and got very quiet. I said a prayer for all of the fallen heroes of the Stark with whom I served; DeAngelis, Kiser, Foster, but I added one more name this time – that of Bob Shippee – because I now knew him through Dan. The rush of the river sang aloud and seemed to lift my prayers skyward. And I wondered if he heard me.

Then I changed out my fly for a March Brown soft hackle and cast upstream into the fast water. I watched my indicator, kept slack out of my line, and followed it as it passed in front of me. On that first drift my indicator shot like a rocket upstream. I lifted my rod on instinct and instantly felt that good spongy heaviness of a large trout. I saw the flash of the fish as it fought, slowly and carefully played it out of the fast water, yielding to its powerful runs, then gaining line, and finally brought it to the net. I removed the fly and cradled a beautiful brown trout gently and reverently in my hands, set it down for a quick picture and then released it. The trout swam off and vanished back into the river. And I knew then that Bob Shippee had heard me…

An answer to my prayers…

Eighteen Mile Creek

This spring I had the pleasure of fly fishing with guide, Daniel Scheda. I first booked Daniel for a wade trip on a Lake Ontario tributary last Fall. During that terrific trip, Daniel spoke passionately about the incredible smallmouth bass fishing that could be had during the pre-spawn bite on new-to-me Eighteen Mile Creek.

Eighteen Mile Creek is a tributary to Lake Erie, located just south of Hamburg, NY. It’s named appropriately after its run of roughly eighteen miles from its source in the town of Concord, flowing north and then west before entering Lake Erie at the community of Highland-on-the-Lake in the town of Evans. It has one major tributary, the South Branch Eighteen Mile Creek, which joins the main branch within Eighteen Mile Creek Park. The creek drains a 120-square-mile watershed.

Given its proximity to Buffalo and its suburbs, Eighteen Mile Creek can get significant fishing pressure, according to Daniel. The trib’s spring and fall runs of steelhead are the most noteworthy draw, but as we prepared for this trip, Daniel warned me we’d want to start before sunrise to get a jump on the fishermen drawn to its spawning run of smallmouth bass. It would turn out that his advice was well-founded.

I met Daniel just before sunrise at a public access to Eighteen Mile Creek, referred to as “18 Mile Creek – Lake” on google maps. The access has adequate parking space and lies just off Old Lake Shore Road. After gearing up, we initially fished a deep pool under the Old Lake Shore Road bridge. Daniel had me start the day fishing an indicator rig and a marabou jig. We would fish two color variations of this jig off and on throughout the day – black and white being his favorite colors – but Daniel will also fish other colors such as olive, brown, and even chartreuse. What intrigued me most about this fishing technique was the subtlety of the “takes” one experiences. I easily missed at least a dozen fish during my initial attempts to fish the jig with success. Even brief hesitation or a hair’s touch of the indicator was a missed bass, and these fish were consistently hooked in the top of the mouth. According to Daniel, the bass come up, mouth the jig, and reject it in the blink of an eye, so quick hooksets are critical, and “free” as he reiterated throughout that great day on the water.

The early morning was spent fishing from the bridge access down to the lake, and even fishing the lake itself. This was about a half-mile wade and a fairly easy one at that. This section of the river is generally wide and shallow, with deeper cuts, especially where the river runs up against the shale shoulders of the creek banks.

Looking downriver to Lake Erie from the Old Lake Shore Road bridge.

As we waded downstream, Daniel changed to a streamer set-up, using a 7 weight 9-foot fly rod rigged with a floating WF7 line. The leader was tapered to 2X and 7.5′ in length. Daniel clips the last 18″ of the leader and ties on a micro-swivel with 18″ of 8 to 12 lb fluorocarbon tippet tied to the swivel. He goes with the 8 lb tippet if the water is really clear but generally fishes 12 lb., as the bass are usually not at all line shy.

Daniel’s streamer of choice is a pattern he learned about while fishing Michigan rivers for smallmouth: Schultz’s Swingin’ D…

Outfitter and guide, Mike Schultz, created the Swinging D as a swim fly with built-in wounded baitfish motion. The fly features tandem hooks, the front being as large as a 2/0, with the rear stinger hook at a size 2 or smaller. It also uses a half cone-shaped buoyant head that gives the fly diving motion. The fly is typically fished with a sinking or intermediate line to pull it down in the water column.

Daniel’s Swingin’ D was a little different in that the head was not buoyant. Daniel made it using a 3D printer out of a dense plastic that allows the fly to sink, primarily because the relatively shallow nature of 18 Mile Creek would not allow the use of a sink-tip line.

The bass had a hard time resisting the side-to-side action of the Swingin’ D, including how it pauses and suspends between strips. The fly Daniel had me use was the white version, with plenty of flash. It was highly visible in the relatively clear water of Eighteen Mile Creek and watching the eats of the bass was exhilarating to say the least.

We fished the streamer down Eighteen Mile Creek to the lake. One area in particular, where the creek hooks northeast, featured a deeper cut along the bank and a long submerged log. We caught many bass there – the bass seemed to love having the structure of the log for cover – no doubt due to the presence of bald eagles and osprey along the creek and lakefront.

We also fished the lake itself at the mouth of Eighteen Mile Creek in the shadow of the shale bluffs looking out over the lake. This was much deeper water but nonetheless productive.

The lakefront of Lake Erie is shown here looking southwest. Note the tall shale bluffs. The creek is seen in the background to the right in this picture.

After wading and hiking back to the car, we drove upriver to another DEC access at the end of Basswood Drive. There is a nice parking area here and like our first stop, a good number of cars and trucks filled it. We hiked down a long trail into the creek gorge and arrived at a very nice hole just upstream of a right-angle bend in the creek. This section had several anglers fishing it for obvious reasons as it was excellent holding water, so we crossed the creek and moved upriver to a place where a massive stone train trestle crossed the creek gorge. This was another fine stretch of water characterized by deep shadowy cuts in the river bedrock.

Daniel Scheda is seen here at the train trestle pool upstream from the Basswood access. This stretch featured deep cuts in the bedrock of the creek and good holding water for smallmouth bass.

Two fly anglers had been working this stretch from the other side without luck and took some time to sit and watch Daniel and I as we worked the cut with the marabou jig.

We moved again after landing a fair number of bass, climbing back up the long trail out of the gorge to the access where we rested and took a lunch break. Thick Wegmans subs with all the trimmings, chips, cookies and water made for a great lunch.

The weather had been perfect for smallmouth fishing, especially given the very clear water conditions. Smallmouth bass are light-shy, and for good reason. Eagles, osprey, kingfishers, and herons all have incredible eyesight. It had been overcast all morning but now the cloudy skies were hinting at rain.

Our last stop was a spot Daniel referred to as “the cemetery.” We parked along an old cemetery perched on high ground that overlooked the creek gorge. A long footpath led us down the gorge to the creek. From there we fished upstream with the streamer and indicator rig, picking away at the bass in the many runs and pools of that section of the creek.

We headed back to the car just in time with the rain starting. While I was very pleased with the fishing, Daniel said the bite had been better the prior week. He had noticed on a number of occasions that the bass were not as aggressive in taking the fly, likely signaling that the spawn was nearing. Indeed, we did see some bass on beds and of course avoided them. Regardless, I would classify it as a great day with over 30 bass to hand. The quality of the fish was excellent, with size ranging from 14″ to over 18″.

A fine bass caught under the tutelage of Daniel Scheda, a terrific fly fishing guide.

Eighteen Mile Creek is one of many Great Lakes tributaries that get runs of spawning smallmouth bass in the spring. Like the pre-spawn bite in our local warmwater rivers, timing is everything for this bite, so these more distant destinations require a bit of luck to time it right or a local who can give one a call when the fishing is on. And while our local Southern Tier rivers can provide some very large bass for the taking, the tribs like Eighteen Mile offer a shot at some truly epic lake run fish, measured more in pounds than inches.

The distance to Eighteen Mile Creek is roughly 3 hours from Vestal/Endicott/Binghamton, so not ideal for a day trip but not impossible either. It would be a better overnight trip, arriving in the evening to get a jump on a very early start the next morning. If you go, be armed with a 10 foot 6 or 7 weight for indicator nymphing, and a 9 foot 7 or 8 weight for streamer fishing. While flows when I fished were fairly tame, boots with felt and cleats are recommended, as well as a wading staff to keep safe especially when you are wading across bedrock.

I’ll add that Daniel Scheda is a fantastic guide who knows the tributary waters of Western NY extremely well, along with the fishing along Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. He is easy to fish with and extremely knowledgeable. My two trips with him were outstanding. Daniel also has a great YouTube channel featuring videos of his fly fishing trips as well as fly tying of his favorite patterns. It’s well worth a look!