You do not cease to fish because you get old, you get old because you cease to fish.
Anonymous
It would be a first trip to our little place in Destin where time didn’t really matter anymore. I was free of the corporate chains, retired, and living the “every day is a Saturday” life.
I sketched out my itinerary, travelling from our home on Lake Ontario, which, to my delight, meant a different route than when driving from Vestal. It would be one with some new fish-as-you-go possibilities. Tracing the fastest route on google maps, I found my path took me along “steelhead alley”, an area I had heard much about but never fished. These 400 miles of southern Lake Erie shoreline span three states–Buffalo, New York at its eastern end; Toledo, Ohio, on its western flank; and Pennsylvania’s shoreline in the middle.
After some internet searching, I found Captain Kurt Charters and contacted Captain Kurt himself, arranging for a guide as well as an overnight stay in one of his cabins. I’d be fishing with guide Dale Fogg on Elk Creek. Elk Creek is a 30-mile-long stream in the northwestern corner of Pennsylvania. This tributary, the largest of the streams in “Steelhead Alley”, is best known for its steelhead fishing. Each fall there is a run of fish from Lake Erie that draws anglers from all around, including Canada.
I arrived in late afternoon at Crooked Creek Cottage, a quaint old cabin perched above, you guessed it, Crooked Creek.
The place had authentic old-school fly-fishing charm, with a beautiful stone fireplace, comfy furnishings, and rooms adorned with fish and game.
After dinner out, and a few cold brews, I turned in, looking forward to one more day on northern waters, before plying the warm waters of the gulf.
I met Dale, waders on, at an access adjacent to Elk Creek. He was rigged up and ready to go and after a brief introduction we were ambling down a trail to the creek. Some of the area streams were running high at the time, but the Elk ran clear and at easy wading levels. The Elk runs over bedrock and gravel and features pools, deep runs along cuts in the bedrock, and riffles – very pretty water for sure.
Dale set me up with a 10-foot 7 weight rod and WF floating line, fishing a 2-fly indicator rig – an egg pattern on point with a white streamer as the tail fly. Lake Erie steelhead love eggs but also the emerald shiners that inhabit the creek.
One of the great things about fishing with a guide is the little fly fishing “hacks” you can pick up from their experience on the water. One such hack I learned is to wet and then step on a streamer to get the air out, allowing it to sink faster.
Pennsylvania stocks Elk Creek and other PA tribs with steelhead smolts in the Spring. Dale expressed disappointment that they had been stocked earlier than normal because smallmouth bass run up the tribs in late Spring to spawn and are putting on the feedbag in anticipation of the energy needed for spawning. He feared a year class could be decimated. The steelhead smolts were certainly there – we picked them up frequently on the egg pattern to the point where they were borderline pests.
We started fishing upstream, working the dark cuts in the bedrock. It never ceases to amaze me how easily trib fish can hide in crystal clear and relatively shallow water. The uninitiated would look at these places and declare them fishless.
We moved up to a beautiful long run of some depth, and it was there that I shook the skunk, though I lost that first steelhead after a brief struggle. This would be a recurring theme throughout the day and one common to steelhead fishing. The hookups were often subtle – the slow dunk or even hesitation of the indicator – but each hookset surely set off headshakes that rose to the surface with violent thrashing.
We worked up to a deep creek bend of complex currents and fished that without success. Above us was another gorgeous run but it was taken by a guide and two anglers, so we waded downstream and fished along the way, thoroughly working the seams and pockets.
We arrived at a very nice riffle and run, and it was there that the bite improved significantly, including a huge redhorse sucker that Dale estimated at 15 lbs!
The egg flies were the big producers – I don’t recall picking up any fish on the streamer, although Dale said streamers can work very well at times.
We waded down to another deep pool under a train trestle with a deep drop-off and more complex current and I hung a very good steelhead there but lost it. Given the current, the depths, and the limited safe wading adjacent to the pool, I doubt I’d ever have landed that fish anyhow.
All in all, it was a great day, with 3 beautiful steelhead landed and another 7 lost in the fight.
Redhorse and quillback suckers were also in the mix.
As predicted in the forecast, the skies deepened with overcast, the winds picked up, and the rain came, first in sprinkles, then in cloudbursts along with rumblings of thunder in the distance. Dale was nice enough to push the fishing as much as he dared, but even I started getting a little apprehensive as the thunder and lightning neared and intensified. Dale suggested we head in and I wasn’t objecting.
We hiked back to the access, the only vehicles left, shrugged off our waders, squared up with tip, and went our separate ways in what now amounted to a downpour. I was soon heading southwest on Interstate 90, driving straight into even nastier weather. It took a while to dry out, but I didn’t care. I was tired and happy, and looking forward to my first stop, a cold beer, a steak dinner, a warm bed, and a replay of the day’s great fishing, with steelhead jumping in my dreams.
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