One angler's journey, fly fishing through life

Tag: Salmon River

Fat Nancy’s Philosophy…

““My biggest worry is that my wife, when I’m dead, will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it.”

Koos Brandt

This past weekend son #2 and I took a trip to the great white north.  I’m not talking Albany, Syracuse, or Rochester; I’m talking PULASKI, which, in Polish should translate to “the place where the snow flies” (the village was actually named after General Casimir Pulaski of revolutionary war fame).  Son #2 is a hockey player, and his Bantam Travel “B” Team was to face off against the Salmon River Storm at 11:30 am that day.  We met only mild weather resistance on the trip north, which is a rarity.  In fact, once we passed snowy Syracuse, the skies cleared up but the bright sunshine did little to lift the frigid cold.  Indeed, when we left the Southern Tier the temp was an invigorating -1-degree F.

The village of Pulaski is famous for two things; fishing and snowmobiling.  Situated on the western edge of Lake Ontario, it receives an average of 175 inches (over 14 feet) of snow every winter, but of more interest is the village’s location on the Salmon River.  This geographical blessing makes it one of the best places, arguably THE best place in the lower 48, to catch big steelhead, monster king and coho salmon, and huge lake-run browns.

We arrived in Pulaski, took the exit off Rt 81 North, and at the top of the exit ramp, ran smack dab into Fat Nancy’s on our way to the rink, and with just one look at the interesting name (followed by “tackle shop”), I knew I had to check it out after the game.

We drove through the sleepy village and immediately got a sense for how much snow this part of upstate New York receives.  The roofs of houses and stores were steeped high with the stuff, and the icicles were enough to make one think twice about passing under any roof overhang.  The rink in Pulaski was colder inside than it was outside, but it made for fast ice and a great game, as the Binghamton Senators filleted the Salmon River Storm 12-5.

After the game, we were to head south to Cortland for a 5:30 pm game and lunch en route, but I took a little detour to Fat Nancy’s under the fatherly auspices of picking up a candy bar for my exhausted hockey player and filling the car up with gas in case we ever got stuck in some abominable snow drift.

“Many of the women that have worked for us over the years got tired of people coming in the store and asking them if they were Nancy,” Rob said. “The fish is now called Fat Nancy.”

Upon first entering Fat Nancy’s, you’re greeted by one hell of a king salmon (87 lbs. to be exact), although legend has it that “Fat Nancy’ is not the mother of all king salmon, nor is she some gargantuan female tackle shop owner, burly and beard-growing, complete with camel cigarette hanging out of her yap, but instead, a huge sturgeon in Lake Ontario that has eluded anglers for years.  Regardless, this big king, hanging in all its glory for all to dream wistfully of bent fly rods and backing on the reel, is just one of many Salmon River trophies mounted as testament to how truly great the fishing is on the Salmon River. For the record, none other than the Salmon River is home to New York state’s record King salmon – a 47 lb. 13-ounce brute caught in 1991. To catch one the size of Fat Nancy, you’d have to head west to Alaska, home of the US record of 97 lbs. 4 ounces.

There’s also an older piece of Pulaski lore: Fat Nancy Rock, a famous boulder on the Salmon River named after a local woman in the 1800s. It predates the tackle shop by more than a century. The shop’s name is a playful nod to that history.

What happens after entry into this fly fisherman’s house of pleasure is sensory overload, as this tackle shop is more like a convenience store version of Cabela’s than a Citgo Mini-Mart. While the shop does cater to the hardware guys, ice fishermen, and trollers, there is a nice stand of G Loomis, Scott, TFO, and some lesser-known brands of fly rods to piqué one’s interest. Fat Nancy’s offers a broad steelhead / salmon fly selection along with a bountiful stock of line, terminal tackle, reels, waders, and clothing. Browsing around, I quickly spied the ultimate big river steelhead rod – a 10′ / 7 weight Scott ARC for sale at half price. I practically had to buy a hat just to catch the slobber that drooled from my mouth.

I picked up a chocolate bar for my very patient hockey player and stood at the counter while a big upstate good-ole-boy sidled up behind the cash register.  “Is that it?”, he bellowed, jowls swaying.  “Yes”, I responded, “although I sure would like to add that Scott ARC you have on sale, but the wife wouldn’t take too kindly to that”.  I chuckled a little, thinking some sympathetic comment would soon follow.  Instead I got a brash and baritone “tough shit”, followed by a lambasting that chastised my manhood and, would have put my tail between my legs if I had one.  “You work for that money, don’t you?”, he scowled, “you can do whatever the hell you want with it, that’s what I say”.  I grimaced and shriveled in the face of this dress-down and soon felt like I was looking up at the counter.  “If you want the rod, buy it, and if she don’t like it, tough shit”. 

I slithered out of the store, my little hockey player in tow, and thought long and hard about “the philosophy” as we sped down Rt 81 to Cortland.  And the more I thought, the more I realized this guy had a point.  The counter-guy’s “pep” talk had truly given me a lift.  Carpe diem, seize the day, strike while the iron’s hot, go for it – the “talk” had convinced me, if nothing else, that Fat Nancy’s was far more than a tackle shop.  Later that week I had a new fly reel on order, with no apologies and nary a second thought, thank you very much.

Loss, Renewal, and the Salmon River

“God made the wild animals according to their kinds, the livestock according to their kinds, and all the creatures that move along the ground according to their kinds. And God saw that it was good.” – Genesis 1:25

It had been a good day on the Salmon River. I had spent it well, casting to steelhead on their fall migration – leaving the dark depths of Lake Ontario to the bright shallows of a swift river. They fought hard when hooked, launching like gleaming chrome missiles into the air, then landing with a crash, fighting and flashing in the clear water. They held in the runs and in the riffles. We sight fished to them, their long dark shadows cast on the river’s bedrock, as old as time.

Jimmy Kirtland, my able guide, led me up the steep trail to the parking area of the private access water we had just fished. The sun was bright on the day, lighting up the fall colors around us. Above us was a canopy of robin’s egg blue with wisps of cloud that foreshadowed the coming rains so needed.

We soon reached our trucks and unloaded our gear. I was good tired – we’d been up at it before sunrise, and I knew I’d need a large coffee for the 2-hour drive home.

Adjacent to the parking area was a lodge, a rustic pine sided house perched atop the crest we had just climbed. It looked out to the river, the long tumbling run, and the riffles and pools of churning water that are the home of the steelhead.

The beautiful run at Whiskey River Lodge in Pulaski, NY. Pic courtesy of Whiskey River Lodge.

I sat on the tailgate of the truck, peeling my waders off. Out the door of the lodge emerged two older women who had been cleaning the place before the next check-in, followed closely by a large red lab. I was immediately struck by the dog’s appearance. It trotted out with waving tail, head held high, sniffing the autumn air. Jimmy greeted it, corralling it in his arms as he knelt down. “Come here, you” he said as he embraced the big tail-wagging dog.

I watched it all and quietly held in the emotion that was building inside me. A year ago, almost to the day, we had put our Maddie down. In her last years she suffered with arthritis. She declined in health rapidly in the month I moved with her to our new home on Lake Ontario. It was as if she was holding out so we were settled before she left us. She had gradually lost the use of her hind legs, her once muscular hind quarters now withered, leaving her unable to stand. When we tried to pick her up, she’d nip in protest. Maddie would never bite any of her humans, so we knew the pain was bad.

I’ve written here previously when we first brought Maddie into our lives. She and her three brothers were rescued from a high kill shelter in Darlington, South Carolina. They were brought north to a rescue in Greene, NY and it was there that we found Maddie. As a family, we had gone without a dog for years. It wasn’t time, my wife said, there was too much going on. And then Ellen saw an ad with Maddie’s puppy picture, and it was all over. Suddenly, we had to have a dog.

Those eyes…

The two women were loading their truck with cleaning supplies, while the red fox lab milled about, anxious to jump into the truck. I watched this beautiful dog, all the time thinking of Maddie because there was so much likeness, and then my cell phone buzzed with a text. Dressed down from fishing, I pulled my phone out of my pocket to read the text. Jade, Peak’s Stone in Love (JH), had given birth. In the text below the comments were two pictures – one, a pile of black and chocolate puppies, just hours old – the other of Jade, lying exhausted as her litter of 10 happily nursed.

A pile of puppies. The two chocolate males have a brown and dark green collar. One of those will be our Finn…
Jade, nursing her litter of ten

In early spring of the year, I had gotten a serious itch to start looking for another dog. The void that Maddie left was just too big. For months I’d come home to an empty house, expecting her greeting. I missed the soft summer evenings when I’d relax with a cigar on our deck while Maddie snoozed on an adjacent deck couch. In the cool evenings of early autumn, Maddie loved the backyard fires we had. She could be a dog of boundless energy with her wild antics, but she was also a champion of chill.

Lady serendipity looked down on me that day. Like the steelhead migrating up the Salmon River, Finn came as Maddie’s parting gift. The river teaches that every return is also a beginning, and so it is with the dogs we love. Maddie’s spirit will live on in Finn, a reminder that love never leaves—it transforms.